
Where Italian & German Food Collide: Trentino-Alto Adige (Full Episode) | Tucci in Italy | Nat Geo
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Stanley Tucci embarks on a culinary journey through Italy, exploring how food reflects the unique identity of each region. His first stop is Trentino-Alto Adige, a northeastern region shaped by centuries of shifting borders between Italy and Austria, resulting in a fascinating blend of German and Italian cultures.
In the Alpe di Siusi, a vast highland meadow surrounded by the Dolomites, Stanley meets Christina Demetz, who is celebrating International Women's Day with a charity race. Here, the traditional Austrian dress, the dirndl, is worn, showcasing a distinct local take on tradition. He then visits Baita Sanon, a slopeside hut run by chef Maddalena Kostner for over 30 years. They enjoy a hearty meal of polenta and Hungarian goulash, a testament to the region's Habsburg heritage. Maddalena explains the complex history of Alto Adige, formerly South Tyrol, which became Italian after World War I. She highlights how Mussolini's attempts to Italianize the region led to bilingual signage and a fusion of culinary influences, evident in dishes like Speck Knoedel and lasagna.
Stanley then ventures to a 200-year-old family hut with chef Franz Mulser, a local who grew up speaking German. Franz shares two family recipes: schlutzkrapfen, a pasta filled with local cheeses and a tomato compote, and a dish from his grandfather, an Austrian who served in the Italian army during World War II. Franz's cuisine is described as a powerful, personal response to survival in this conflicted region.
The journey continues to Merano, the region's spa capital, known for its luxurious cooking where Austrian influence and Italian sensibility collide. Here, Michelin-starred chef Egon Heiss at Castel Fragsburg masterfully blends regional duality in his cuisine. He prepares knoedel, a traditional Austrian dumpling with roots dating back to the 13th century, and gnocchi, the classic Italian potato dumpling. Egon emphasizes the importance of quality ingredients, particularly the right potatoes for gnocchi, and showcases his refined techniques, such as a gorgonzola-filled gnocchi with a cheese fondue center. He also prepares a trio of knoedel: speck, beetroot, and Tyrolean grey cheese.
At Castel Fragsburg, Stanley is joined by owner Alexander Ortner, who shares a poignant story about his father being jailed for singing German songs under Mussolini's regime. This anecdote underscores the deep-seated impact of historical political shifts on personal lives and cultural expression. Despite the past hardships, the region has evolved, and families now have the freedom to embrace their linguistic and cultural identities.
Moving further south, Stanley travels to the Genova Valley in Trentino, where he attempts to catch lunch with local anglers Stefano Fedrizzi, Diego, and Paolo. They fish for marble trout in the Sarca River, a species unique to the area, known for its elusive nature. While the catch proves difficult, Stanley has a backup meal of alpine arctic char. The anglers express their deep connection to nature and how fly fishing serves as a spiritual practice for them, allowing them to feel close to the divine. They confirm that the Germanic influence remains strong even in these southern valleys.
In Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, Stanley explores a market bustling with both Italian and Austrian products. He notes the city's organized and tidy nature, perhaps even "too quiet" for some. While German and Italian influences are evident, the city's diversity is further enriched by a growing immigrant population. Rahma, who arrived from Ethiopia 14 years ago, participates in a community supper club called "Cooking Without Borders," celebrating this diversity through shared meals. Rahma prepares injera bread, a traditional Ethiopian flatbread, for a group of diners from various backgrounds, highlighting the region's evolving identity as a melting pot.
The final destination is San Vigilio in Badia, home to the Ladins, an ancient community speaking a 2,000-year-old language. Uli Ties and her family have been farming in this mountainous region for generations, preserving traditional Ladin ways of life. Due to the sparse landscape, food preservation is crucial. Uli showcases their traditional speck cellar, where cured and smoked pork is aged for months. She also prepares "canci checi," potato and ricotta filled dumplings, a dish that exemplifies Ladin resourcefulness in using limited ingredients to create flavorful meals. The dish, translated as "red ravioli," is served with toasted poppy seeds and melted butter, and a touch of dried raspberries for color and a hint of sourness. A multi-course Ladin feast follows, featuring dishes like furtaias (sweet funnel cakes) and a dish with pancetta and sour cabbage, all made with locally produced ingredients. The Ladins, who do not identify as Italian or Austrian but as a distinct language group, have maintained their strong identity by staying true to their heritage, much like the unchanging mountains surrounding them. Their sense of self is rooted in their language and community, proving that true belonging transcends political borders.
Trentino-Alto Adige is presented as a region where resilience and adaptation have led to a rich culinary landscape. The constant shifts in political allegiances have paradoxically enriched its pantry, allowing its communities to embrace the best of various cultures and forge a unique sense of self, deeply connected to their land and traditions.