Vacances de luxe : pourquoi les Français craquent pour Zanzibar ?

In the midst of the global pandemic, Zanzibar, Tanzania, emerges as a rare open destination for tourists, attracting visitors from around the world. French students Clara, Aida, and Sonia, initially planning a trip to Thailand, rerouted to Zanzibar due to Thailand's mandatory 14-day hotel quarantine. Zanzibar's relaxed restrictions, with no PCR tests required upon arrival, no imposed quarantine, and open bars and restaurants without capacity limits, offered a stark contrast to the situation in France. They relished the freedom of enjoying mojitos on the beach, sunsets, and social gatherings without masks, finding a sense of normalcy and escape from the pandemic's anxieties back home. While the global community grappled with COVID-19, Tanzania, under President John Magufuli, declared victory over the epidemic through prayer, ceasing to officially record cases in April 2020. This policy significantly benefited Zanzibar's tourism sector, which accounts for 20% of its economy and employs 70,000 people. Kendowa Rocks, a popular hotel with a 99% occupancy rate, experienced overwhelming demand, even leading to issues with overbooking. The hotel had a brief three-month closure at the pandemic's onset, forcing 90% of its staff to be laid off. Upon reopening in July, they rehired a new team, optimistic about the influx of tourists. A new clientele emerged for Zanzibar: Russians. Moscow designated Tanzania as one of the few countries Russians were permitted to travel to. Charter flights brought over 10,000 tourists per week to the archipelago, a tenfold increase from pre-pandemic levels. Hotel owner Ali Kiloupi expressed gratitude to the Tanzanian and Russian presidents for this crucial support, highlighting Africa's inability to provide social aid. He noted that while malaria and other diseases caused deaths, the focus remained on survival and the economy. In Tanzania, disseminating information about contagious diseases was discouraged, with the president attributing rising hospital deaths to pneumonia. Ali's Kendowa Rocks complex thrived, expanding to include a skydiving center, the only one in East Africa. Ali, a pioneer in Kendwa, transformed a small, isolated village into a thriving tourist hub. He built houses, including an 880 m² villa, and married a French woman, Sonia, whom he met in Zanzibar a decade prior. His success began in 1996 when, as a young manager, he invested in a beach property, establishing a camping site with huts and a restaurant. Despite initial challenges like lack of water and electricity, the venture quickly grew, employing 120 people today, all dependent on tourism. Babu Ali, a housekeeping manager at Kendowa Rocks since 2008, earns four times the Tanzanian median salary, supporting two families. He lives in a polygamous society, common in Zanzibar, with two wives and six children. He divides his week between his two families, highlighting the economic impact of tourism, as he faced significant hardship during the hotel's closure, lacking state assistance. He feared the consequences of tourism halting more than the virus itself. The open borders of Zanzibar allowed for the maintenance of 70,000 tourism-related jobs. Sophie, a 31-year-old French woman, found employment as an excursion guide on a traditional boat after experiencing job uncertainty in France's hospitality sector. She joined Captain Moody and his French partner, highlighting the appeal of the island for Europeans seeking opportunities. Tourists like Julie and Elisa from Switzerland paid 50 euros for a day trip, enjoying dolphin sightings and the Mnemba atoll. The luxury hotel, Parasite, at 1250 euros per night, was a highlight for some, rumored to be owned by Bill Gates. Sophie, employed for three months, acknowledged the precariousness of her situation but valued the client interaction. Some tourists, like a couple from Israel, found themselves stranded in Zanzibar as their home country's borders closed. They considered it the best place to be stuck. Meanwhile, Kendowa Rocks continued its Saturday Beach Parties and monthly Full Moon Parties, drawing large crowds. Ali defended these gatherings, stating no COVID-19 cases were reported among his staff. Upon returning to France, Sonia and Clara tested positive for COVID-19, despite receiving negative results in Zanzibar. Clara, a healthcare aide, suspected their PCR tests were not properly analyzed, with one guide even providing a false certificate for $150. Their positive results upon returning to France suggested that tourists were also contributing to the spread of the virus. The Tanzanian authorities later acknowledged the death of the president of Zanzibar from COVID-19 but refused vaccine imports. The narrative then shifts to Tanzania's national parks, focusing on the Ngorongoro Crater. Belgian tourists, guided by Semvoa, a Maasai guide, explored the crater, home to diverse wildlife including black rhinos. The Maasai people, historically inhabiting these lands, have faced displacement due to lucrative tourism. Semvoa, having transitioned from traditional herding to guiding, learned French and became knowledgeable about the wildlife. He earns up to 2000 euros per month during peak season, contributing to Tanzania's tourism revenue. Park rangers, like Captain Maigui, are crucial in protecting wildlife, particularly the endangered black rhinos. The rhino population in the crater has increased from 16 to 50. Tourists are required to leave the crater by 6 PM. The Belgian tourists opted for a tented camp managed by Elsa, a French expatriate who moved to Tanzania seeking a different life. Their business, a collaboration between Semvoa and Elsa, prospered, generating €320,000 in sales in its first year. Semvoa, despite living in Arusha, maintains ties to his Maasai roots, visiting his village three times a year. The village, Malengwa, consists of traditional huts and livestock, the Maasai's primary wealth. Semvoa and Elsa support the village with food supplies. However, 70% of the Maasai live in poverty, and many were expelled from Ngorongoro after its designation as a protected park in 1979, leading to a disconnect from their traditional way of life. Access to water remains a challenge for Maasai women, who travel 5 km daily to fetch it, while luxury hotels within the Ngorongoro Crater, like the 5-star lodge, have direct access to mountain springs. Ellie, a chambermaid at the lodge, earns significantly more than the average Tanzanian salary, enabling her to build a house. Maasai men, like Samuel, escort guests, showcasing traditional attire and spears for perceived security. Despite their displacement from ancestral lands, the Maasai preserve their traditions, including ceremonies like the sacrifice of a goat, symbolizing virility and longevity. These celebrations also serve as a remembrance of their lost territories. The creation of new national parks in Tanzania has led to further displacement of Maasai communities.