Coloscopie avec Norbert Tarayre, Laurent Mariotte et Pascal Sellem

This YouTube video features a lively discussion on French cuisine with three guests: Norbert, a culinary chronicler; Pascal, an enthusiastic amateur cook; and Laurent, a well-known cookbook author and TV personality. The conversation touches on the essence of cooking, the importance of seasonal ingredients, the evolution of French restaurants, and personal culinary experiences. **What is Cuisine?** The discussion begins with defining cuisine. Norbert sees it as a language, a way to express love, connect with the tangible, build self-confidence, and understand what one eats. Laurent echoes this, calling it a "superpower" because not everyone knows how to cook even basic dishes like pasta. Pascal emphasizes that cooking is about creating good moments for friends and loved ones, likening it to a superpower. The idea of cooking being "sexy" is also raised, with the observation that men cooking is increasingly common and appreciated, a shift from previous generations where grandmothers taught cooking to granddaughters, now it's often men taking the lead. A historical rupture in culinary transmission is noted, stemming from the 1968 movement where mothers discouraged daughters from cooking, viewing it as a housewife's chore rather than a path to emancipation. Despite this, the presence of highly acclaimed female chefs like Anne-Sophie Pic is highlighted, demonstrating a new era of female culinary achievement. **The Importance of Seasons and Producers** A significant portion of the discussion revolves around the concept of seasonality in cooking. Laurent and Norbert advocate for cooking with seasonal ingredients. However, Norbert introduces a nuance, suggesting that in a deregulated climate, it's more important to follow the rhythm of local producers. He cites the example of courgettes that can last until spring, advising to listen to farmers who might have surplus produce. Pascal, on the other hand, is playfully accused of using exotic ingredients with a poor carbon footprint, a claim he refutes by mentioning his past experience with permaculture, which focused on seasonal, local produce. **The State of French Restaurants** The conversation shifts to the current state of French restaurants. Laurent expresses concern that many restaurants are moving towards "assembly" rather than true cooking, implying a decline in traditional culinary practices. However, Norbert counters this, pointing out a new generation of chefs who are dedicated to seasonal, local produce, offering concise menus and focusing on quality. He defends restaurants, stating that not all engage in mere assembly and that the culinary scene is more vibrant than ever, partly due to the increased visibility of food on television and social media. This leads to a debate about the influx of inexperienced individuals opening restaurants, often driven by the perceived ease of making profit from simple dishes like pizza. The distinction between a good cook and a good restaurateur is emphasized, as managing a restaurant requires business acumen beyond culinary skills. Some highly skilled chefs, while brilliant in the kitchen, may lack the entrepreneurial spirit to run their own establishments. **Democratizing Fine Dining** Norbert shares his experience at the Prince de Galles hotel, where he introduced a bistro-style menu at a more accessible price point. He likens this to the "Moët & Chandon" effect in jewelry, where luxury brands democratized their offerings. He highlights that even in a five-star setting, traditional dishes like saucisson brioché can be successful and profitable, challenging the notion that high-end dining must be exclusive and expensive. This initiative aims to make fine dining, or at least well-executed bistro cuisine, accessible to a wider audience. **Traditional vs. Modern Cuisine** Laurent expresses a fondness for traditional French brasseries and bistros, as well as "chef's bistros" that embrace modern approaches. He defends the idea of rediscovering forgotten or "obsolete" dishes, emphasizing that these classics hold sentimental value and are being brought back to life by a younger generation of chefs who understand seasonality and local sourcing. Pascal's approach to cooking is described as empirical, relying on good ingredients rather than strict recipes. **Signature Dishes and Culinary Memories** The guests share their signature dishes. Pascal's is "saucisse purée," a simple yet beloved dish. Norbert's signature dish is the Sunday roast chicken, often prepared with a ginger beer infusion. Laurent humorously recounts his early television experience of cooking a boeuf bourguignon in a microwave, a "crime against majesty" that became a recurring broadcast due to popular demand, despite his initial embarrassment. He also admits to a preference for well-cooked food. **Food Waste and Cultural Differences** The topic of food waste is addressed, with a focus on restaurants. Norbert mentions that bread is a significant source of waste and suggests charging for it, as done in Spain, to make customers more conscious. The concept of "doggy bags" is discussed, noting its limited adoption in France due to cultural shyness, though Norbert's team embraces them after filming. **The "Superpower" of Cooking and Personal Aspirations** The idea of cooking as a superpower is revisited. Pascal, who grew up with a father who was a fishmonger, always wanted to follow in his footsteps. Laurent initially aspired to be a children's entertainer but transitioned to culinary arts after a CAP in cuisine. Norbert's father was a livestock breeder, and he initially wanted to be a butcher. The conversation touches on the idea of inherited culinary passion and the importance of passing down knowledge. **Frustrations in the Culinary World** Laurent expresses annoyance with the "nouvelle cuisine" movement, finding its small portions unsatisfying. He also dislikes the overuse of micro-herbs and garnishes that detract from the main dish's flavor. The trend of "instagrammable" food is criticized for prioritizing aesthetics over taste, leading to dishes that are visually appealing but lack substance. The meticulous plating of some chefs, using tweezers, is also a point of contention for some. **Gastronomic Experiences and Controversial Foods** The guests share their most memorable gastronomic experiences and their willingness to try unusual foods. Pascal admits to eating octopus, while Norbert enjoys kidneys. The expression "what would you eat on a louse's head?" is explored, revealing a generational gap in understanding this idiom. Laurent recounts eating crocodile in Kenya and being offered panda sandwiches in China. Norbert has tried various offal, including sheep testicles, but draws the line at horse meat, finding it ethically challenging. The consumption of century eggs and fertilized duck eggs is also mentioned. **The Role of Servers and Restaurant Etiquette** The importance of servers is highlighted, with Norbert emphasizing that they are crucial to a restaurant's success. He recounts an incident where a customer was disrespectful to his staff, leading to his expulsion from the establishment, regardless of its prestige. The guests agree that mistreating staff is unacceptable. The discussion touches upon the difficulty of the restaurant industry, particularly the long hours and demanding nature of the work, which has led to a more relaxed attitude among the younger generation of chefs. **Michelin Stars and the Evolution of Gastronomy** The impact of Michelin stars is debated, with the tragic story of Bernard Loiseau mentioned as an example of the immense pressure associated with maintaining high ratings. While acknowledging the prestige, there's a sense that the new generation of chefs is less fixated on stars, with some even returning them. The guide's evolution, from strict rules to adapting to modern dining trends like music and the absence of tablecloths, is noted. The financial implications of multiple Michelin stars are also discussed, with three stars potentially leading to financial ruin. **The Future of Food: Sustainability and Ethics** The conversation delves into the ethical considerations of food consumption. The overfishing of certain species like sole and the destructive nature of bottom trawling are raised. The increasing presence of lesser-known fish on menus, driven by availability and sustainability, is seen as a positive trend. The rising cost of quality fish, such as mackerel, is highlighted, making traditional noble fish even more expensive. The guests advocate for consuming less meat but better quality, ethically raised meat, contrasting it with industrially farmed poultry that can be watery and less flavorful. The decline of large supermarket chains and the potential return of local markets are discussed as a way to support local producers and ensure better quality produce. **The "Bio" Debate and Industrialization** The concept of organic food ("bio") is critically examined. While initially praised, it's argued that its industrialization has led to a loss of control, with organic products imported from abroad not adhering to the same strict standards as local French organic produce. The idea that organic food can sometimes be more expensive than conventional supermarket products is acknowledged, but the benefits of local, small-scale organic farming are championed. **Food Films and Culinary Preferences** The guests share their favorite food-related films, including "L'Aile ou la Cuisse," "Babette's Feast," "Ratatouille," and "Chef." They also discuss their preferred dishes, with pasta and rice being popular choices. The trend of spicy food and fusion cuisine is acknowledged, though the latter is seen as a somewhat dated concept. The idea of "revisiting" classic dishes is met with some skepticism, with a preference for authentic flavors. **The Art of Plating and Culinary Skills** The importance of plating is discussed, with Laurent admitting his weakness in this area. The art of illusion in pastry, where desserts are made to look like unexpected objects, is appreciated. The discussion touches upon the skills needed to master bread-making as a foundational element of culinary expertise. **Restaurant Pet Peeves and Customer Behavior** Several pet peeves in restaurants are highlighted, including the use of pre-cut, frozen bread, and the misuse of siphon capsules for making whipped cream. The guests also express their disdain for rude customers who disrespect staff, emphasizing that such behavior is unacceptable. The anecdote of a server putting his finger in mashed potatoes is shared, leading to a discussion about hygiene and customer service. **The Role of Sommelier and the Future of Wine** The role of sommeliers and their often complex language is discussed, with a humorous take on their descriptions of wine. The idea of appreciating wine without overly technical jargon is suggested. **Personal Culinary Journeys and Reflections** The guests reflect on their personal culinary journeys and what they love to cook. Pascal enjoys slow-cooked, saucy dishes, while Laurent prefers simplicity. They discuss the challenges and rewards of the culinary profession, with a shared sentiment that cooking is a way to bring people together and create lasting memories. The importance of honoring the ingredients and preparing food with care is a recurring theme. The conversation concludes with a toast to friendship and good food.