
QUE FAIRE À KUMAMOTO EN UNE JOURNÉE ! 🇯🇵 (JAPON) #66
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The speaker is on the 66th day of their adventure in Kumamoto, Japan, located on the island of Kyushu. They arrived from Miyasaki, departing at precisely 8:43 AM. The journey involved a bus ride for about two-thirds of the way to Shin Yatsu Shiro, followed by a train to Kumamoto.
The primary reason for visiting Kumamoto is its famous castle. While not one of the 12 original castles in Japan that still retain their original keep (tenchu), Kumamoto Castle is renowned for its imposing size and surrounding domain. In 2016, the castle was significantly damaged by a powerful earthquake, which also caused casualties. Although the castle did not collapse, its structure was severely weakened, and it has been under renovation since. Despite the ongoing work, the site has been adapted to allow visitors to explore.
Before heading to the castle, the speaker provides a tour of their accommodation, a private apartment. They describe it as small, basic, but comfortable and well-equipped with a single bed, a small balcony overlooking a wall, a TV, air conditioning/heating, a work area with a laptop, a kettle, a fridge, a microwave, and a small bathroom with a shower and bathtub. The toilet is a classic Panasonic model. The cost for this apartment is 25 euros per night, booked via Agoda.
The apartment's location is excellent, being less than a five-minute walk from the castle. The speaker mentions observing beautiful mountains and a sunset from near the castle the previous evening. Due to the ongoing renovations, access to the castle is restricted to a main entrance, which requires walking around the domain. The castle's imposing walls are visible, with some sections showing damage and reinforcement from the earthquake, including mesh to hold blocks and cement and gravel bags to support weakened areas. The domain is vast, contributing to the castle's fame. Many stones from the collapsed walls are piled up, waiting to be used in the restoration. The damage to the retaining walls supporting the main keep has significantly weakened its structure.
The speaker expresses that they are "condemned" to walk around the entire castle domain to reach the south entrance, but this allows them to fully appreciate its size. Having visited many castles in Japan, they believe Kumamoto Castle is the largest and most imposing. Despite not having its original keep, it is considered one of Japan's three most beautiful castles, a common classification in Japan alongside gardens and historic districts.
The entrance ticket costs 800 yen (less than 4.50 euros). The speaker shows a stamp of Kumamoto Castle they received upon entry. They note that a new footbridge was built in 2020, and the site reopened in 2021, having been completely closed from 2016 to 2021. The renovations are expected to continue until 2036. The original castle was built in 1467, underwent a major renovation in 1960, and was then damaged in 2016.
After visiting the castle, the speaker shares their honest opinion. They found the exterior of the castle magnificent, still showing earthquake damage and requiring extensive work. However, the interior, which functions as a museum, was disappointing. They found that nothing of the original structure, such as wooden beams or framework, is visible inside. Furthermore, there is a complete lack of English information; only some panel titles are in English, while all texts are in Japanese. The speaker criticizes this as "a bit shameful" for a tourist site of such importance, given that Kumamoto Castle is widely known in Japan. A brochure provided at the entrance only lists what is on each floor, and a QR code for more information is available, but the speaker prefers not to rely on a phone for a museum visit. Despite the language issue, they still recommend visiting the site for its impressive exterior.
Next, the speaker visits Sakura Nobaba Josayen, an area at the foot of the castle featuring cafes and restaurants in traditional-style houses. This area, though recently created, offers regional specialties and local crafts. The speaker tries two horse meat croquettes, a regional specialty in Kumamoto: one with curry and one classic. They find them very tasty, especially the curry one, though not as good as croquettes they had in Yufuin.
The speaker then introduces Kumamon, the official mascot of Kumamoto Prefecture, describing it as one of Japan's most popular mascots. They explain the significance of mascots (yuru-chara) in Japan, with each prefecture, police force, and city having one. They find Kumamon very charming.
To accompany the croquettes, the speaker tries a hot drink made with Amanatsu (a local citrus, also known as Natsu Mikan) and honey, which they find both acidic and sweet.
For the rest of the day, the speaker plans to explore more of Kumamoto. They head to Shin Machi, an old historic district known for its ancient residences and tea houses, despite its name meaning "new city." They take a short walk through this district, which they describe as pleasant with some old houses and a canal. They stop at a cafe called Nagasaki Giro, established in 1874, enjoying coffee and watching old trams pass by.
For lunch, the speaker finds a restaurant serving "Aka ushi don," a rice bowl topped with Aka Ushi beef, a high-quality Japanese brown wagyu beef from the region, served with wasabi and an egg. They also enjoy a small side broth. They spontaneously buy a Kouign-amann from an Eric Kayser bakery, surprised to find the French chain in Kumamoto. They describe the pastry as very good, rich with salted butter caramel.
The speaker takes an old wooden-floored tram, which costs a flat rate of 200 yen regardless of distance. They arrive at a location to see a statue of Luffy, the main character of the manga One Piece, erected in honor of the manga artist Eiichiro Oda, who was born in Kumamoto. However, the true purpose of their visit to this area is to collect stamps at the Kumamoto Prefectural Office, a building across from the statue. They successfully collect six different stamps, including some featuring Kumamon.
From there, they walk to a garden and temple called Suizen-ji Jojuen. They check an information center for stamps but find none, though they receive a brochure from friendly staff. They purchase a beautiful 400-yen ticket (about 2.20 euros) for entry.
To conclude the day, the speaker visits the 14th floor of Kumamoto City Hall, which offers a free panoramic view of the city. They had visited the previous night but found the view more interesting at dusk.
Finally, the speaker indulges in a Tayaki, a traditional Japanese waffle-like pastry, filled with custard (their favorite), purchased from a chain they recognized from a previous trip to Osaka. They pay 330 yen (1.80 euros) for it and find it delicious.
For dinner, the speaker enjoys Kumamoto Ramen, a local specialty based on Tonkotsu ramen (pork bone broth) from Kyushu, but enriched with a lot of garlic. They also order gyoza on the side. They find the ramen delicious, with firm noodles and succulent pork slices, and it was affordable at less than 1000 yen (around 5.50 euros) for both the ramen and gyoza.
The speaker summarizes the day's explorations, reiterating their mixed feelings about the castle's interior but praising its exterior. They highly recommend the garden visited in the afternoon, especially with the beautiful late afternoon light. The view from the city hall was also appreciated at dusk. They compare the Aka Ushi beef lunch to a higher-quality Miyazaki beef they had previously, noting that while the Aka Ushi was good as an "entry-level" option, the Miyazaki beef was superior. They express gratitude to their supporters, Louis Covelli and Patrick Zissé, and encourage viewers to subscribe, comment, and like the video. They promise to return for another day in Japan.